I have to say a pet peeve of mine (no pun intended) is how unrealistic some dog owners can be about how long it takes to train a dog. It can take months and months of dedicated and consistent hard work to see results sometimes depending on the task you are trying to achieve. It can take hundreds of repetitions to change behaviour.

For example, look at it this way… how long would it take YOU to change a behaviour? To lose weight? To quit smoking? To stop biting your nails? To teach your child to swim, or ride a bike, or read, or..? Well you get the idea. So why do you think it should take 6-8 hours of classroom work to teach your dog all he needs to know in life? Then, even worse, to be disappointed that he isn’t meeting your standards of obedience.

To say that I, or any other Trainer for that matter, could adequately train your puppy or dog in 6-8 weeks is more than misleading. It’s a lie! To complete only one set of lessons, to me, is like stopping your human child’s education after Elementary School. You can’t possibly expect them to know what they were not taught. As a family dog style trainer, myself, I don’t expect your dog to be a “University Graduate” so to speak, I could care less about fancy footwork and tricks, but he should at least get his “High School Diploma” in if you want him to be a well behaved member of the family.

If you want your dog to sit with you at Starbucks, go camping with the family, greet people and dogs politely, walk on the leash without pulling you around and have a chance at coming back when called off leash- you need more than a puppy or beginners class! Please check out our many class choices to continue your dogs education.

Back in the day, trainers based most of their training on choke chain yanks and harsh intimidation techniques. Because of this they rarely recommended you train your dog before 6 months of age. Modern trainers now know it’s about positivity and using canine psychology… working with your dog not against him. There is no reason to wait until 6 months of age any longer. In fact I think you would be making a huge mistake to do so. The window of puppyhood is small and their little brains grow rapidly. What you do in those first few months really sets them up for who they will become as adult dogs.

We accept puppies into group class at 12 weeks of age provided they have received their 2nd set of vaccines. Any earlier than that I always tell my clients to enjoy bonding with their puppy and focus on potty training. That really should be enough to keep you busy from 8-12 weeks.

The whole first year I call a “rollercoaster” because your puppy changing and growing over and over, week after week, month after month. Who he is and what he does can seem unpredictable if you aren’t familiar with their stages of development. A good training routine can help smooth out those rollercoaster bumps.

Proper and ongoing socialization is another critical part of raising a puppy that you do not want to skip or even postpone. Always keeping safety in mind first, your puppy should be out experiencing life and meeting new human and doggy friends on a regular basis from as young as possible. This is the #1 and often ONLY way to prevent unwanted future aggressive behaviors. The real key is the ongoing part… don’t stop socializing… ever.

What is realistic for a puppy to learn in a group class? 

The puppy should learn basic manners about nipping, chewing, jumping, and potty training. As well as get a start on obedience commands such as sit, down, stay, come, leave it and leash walking. As I have said many times, a puppy class is not the end of the road for training, but only a beginning step. Every dog will benefit from at least one form of follow up training as they age and grow. Your dog will NOT have perfect recall or leash manners until he is long out of that one year rollercoaster we spoke of, unless you have a rare Lassie right out of the womb. That stuff takes time and effort on your part. Probably more than you think.

Set your expectations realistically, set aside plenty of time for training, and don’t forget to enjoy and have fun with your new puppy!!

Whoever thought that raising a child is the toughest thing to do may not have raised a puppy. After all, at least babies can wear diapers! Much like infants and toddlers, though, puppies explore their world by putting things in their mouths. Puppies are teething until they’re about six months old, which usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better.

Puppies may chew on furniture, shoes, shrubbery, and other objects. These are normal puppy behaviors, but they can still create problems for you. Unfortunately, unlike children, puppies won’t magically “outgrow” these behaviors as they mature. Instead, you must shape your puppy’s behaviors and teach him which ones are acceptable and which aren’t.

Discouraging Unacceptable Behaviors

It’s virtually inevitable that your puppy will, at some point, chew up something you value. This is part of raising a puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by taking the following precautions:

• Minimize chewing problems by puppy-proofing your house. Put the trash out of reach—inside a cabinet or outside on the porch—or buy containers with locking lids. Encourage children to pick up their toys and don’t leave socks, shoes, eyeglasses, briefcases, or TV remote controls lying around within your puppy’s reach.
• If, and only if, you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn’t, interrupt the behavior with a loud noise, then offer him an acceptable chew toy instead. Praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth.
• Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your puppy. Furniture and other items can be coated with a taste deterrent (such as Bitter Apple®) to make them unappealing.
• Don’t give your puppy objects to play with such as old socks, old shoes, or old children’s toys that closely resemble items that are off-limits. Puppies can’t tell the difference.
• Closely supervise your puppy. Don’t give him the chance to go off by himself and get into trouble. Use baby gates, close doors, or tether him to you with a six-foot leash so that you can keep an eye on him.
• When you must be gone from your home or you can’t actively supervise your puppy, confine him to a small, safe area such as a laundry room. You might also consider crate training your puppy. Puppies under five months of age shouldn’t be crated for longer than four hours at a time because they may not be able to control their bladder and bowels longer than that.
• Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical activity. Puppies (and dogs) left alone in a yard don’t play by themselves. Take your puppy for walks and/or play a game of fetch with him for both mental and physical exercise.
• Give your puppy plenty of “people time.” He can only learn the rules of your home when he’s with you.

Encouraging Acceptable Behavior

• Provide your puppy with lots of appropriate toys.
• Rotate your puppy’s toys. Puppies are often more interested in unfamiliar or novel objects. Put out a few for several days, then pick those up and put out different ones.
• Experiment with different kinds of toys. When you introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to make sure he won’t tear it up and ingest the pieces.
• Consider the various types of toys that can be stuffed with food. Putting tidbits of food inside chew toys focuses your puppy’s chewing activities on those toys instead of on unacceptable objects.

Other Reasons for Destructive Behavior

In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing more than normal puppy behavior. Occasionally, however, puppies—like adult dogs—can exhibit destructive behaviors for specific reasons. Examples include separation anxiety, fear-related behaviors, and attention-getting behaviors. For help with these problems, contact a professional animal behaviorist such as myself.

What Not to Do

Never discipline or punish your puppy after the fact. If you discover a chewed item even minutes after he’s chewed it, you’re too late. Animals associate correction with what they’re doing at the time they’re being corrected. A puppy can’t reason that, “I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that’s why I’m being scolded now.” Some people believe this is what a puppy is thinking because he runs and hides or because he “looks guilty.”

In reality, “guilty looks” are actually canine submissive postures that dogs show when they’re threatened. When you’re angry and upset, your puppy feels threatened by your tone of voice, body postures, and/or facial expressions, so he may hide or show submissive postures. Punishment after the fact will not only fail to eliminate the undesirable behavior, but could provoke other undesirable behaviors as well.

A puppy has a lot to learn in his new home. Be patient and consistent when training your new puppy and you’ll share a special bond for years to come.

Cats and dogs need protection from winter weather both inside and outside of the home.  They are vulnerable to extreme cold, ice and snow. Dogs should be kept inside from the harsh weather and walks on leashes outside as needed. If you are cold, your pet is cold. Consider buying them a pet sweater. Both and short-haired and long-haired dogs are equally susceptible to the cold weather.

Animals who do live outside or stay outside a lot in the winter they will use more energy to stay warm and will require more food. Be careful not to over-feed them so that they gain weight and become over-weight.

Cats may crawl up under your car seeking shelter and warmth near the engine after parking your car. They may become caught in the fan belt and suffer serious injury when someone starts the engine. Cats also like to climb on top of the tires seeking warmth from the cars breaking system. Before starting your car slap the hood and/or honk the horn the scare them away from the vehicle.

Antifreeze has a sweet taste, and pets think this tastes good. Antifreeze is however a deadly poison. Keep all antifreeze secure in safe locations and be aware of any antifreeze puddle that you and your pet may encounter, such as those found in parking lots or your garage from radiator drainage in cars. If you suspect your pet has consumed antifreeze please seek veterinary assistance immediately.

Animals may potentially suffer from frostbite and hypothermia. Frostbite is most commonly seen on paws of your pets. Symptoms may not appear until a few days after the exposure. Signs of frostbite are swollen paws and your pet fussing over the area. If this happens, take your pet to your veterinarian immediately. Do not apply hot object to the area as this may cause more damage.

Wash the pads of your pets’ feet:  Pets that go outside can pick up rock salt, ice and chemicals on their foot pads.  After a walk, wipe the feet of your pet with a washcloth.  This will keep their pads from getting chapped and will also prevent inflammation of the digestive tract that may result from licking the salt.

Report neglected animals: If you suspect an animal is being left outside for too long without proper protection from the elements, report it to the SPCA immediately!

Any 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic can attest to the fact that the holidays are a dangerous time for pets. The number of poisonings, injuries, accidents and preventable illnesses rises dramatically from the latter part of November through early January.

Cat owners, dog owners, bird owners and other pet lovers should consider the following holiday hazards.

Pet Holiday Hazard 1: The Holiday Food

The incidence of pancreatitis in dogs increases dramatically around Thanksgiving, Hanukkah and Christmas, as well-intentioned owners feed their dogs fatty foods and even fat trimmings, which cause a potentially deadly inflammation of the pancreas. So avoid feeding fatty food and large quantities of a new food, as this can cause diarrhea or vomiting in dogs and cats.

Pet Holiday Hazard 2: The Holiday Plants

Poinsettias, mistletoe, holly berries and some Christmas trees (cedar) can be toxic to dogs, cats, birds and even children! So pet owners should learn what plants are toxic to pets and avoid bringing those potentially poisonous plants into the home. And even non-toxic plants can cause quite an upset stomach if ingested by a dog or cat, so keep even “safe” plants well out of the reach of cats, dogs and other pets.

Pet Holiday Hazard 3: The Holiday Decorations

The Christmas tree poses its very own danger. Cats may try to climb the Christmas tree, causing the tree to tip and fall, breaking glass ornaments and light bulbs in the process. Cat owners should either keep the tree in an area that is off-limits to the cat when a human is not present to supervise, or consider tethering the tree using a bit of wire and some strategically placed eye hooks.

Pet owners should also avoid using glass ornaments on their Christmas trees, as this can pose a hazard to dogs, cats and humans if the glass ornaments are knocked off the tree and break. If glass Christmas tree ornaments cannot be avoided, place the breakable ornaments on the higher tree limbs.
Also avoid using tinsel on the Christmas tree or in other locations. Tinsel can cause intestinal obstructions in a dog or cat. Caution should also be used when placing garland in the home as a holiday decoration.

Candles or the menorah can pose a danger to pets, especially if unattended. The cat may wander too close to the flame, resulting in burns. Or a playful dog may bump into a table and knock a candle over, starting a fire.

Pet Holiday Hazard 4: The Holiday Party/Dinner Guests and Other Holiday Visitors

There’s many guests coming into the home around the holidays this poses many dangers to pets.

A child who does not know how to properly interact with a dog or cat may end up the victim of a dog bite incident or cat clawing. As guests enter and exit the home for Thanksgiving dinner or a New Year’s Eve party, this provides an opportunity for dogs, cats, and birds to escape, so all pets should be secured when holiday guests are expected.

A visitor may feed an inappropriate or toxic food to a cat, dog or other pet, resulting in a holiday pet poisoning incident. And a house guest may leave inappropriate and potentially toxic food items (i.e. chocolates) inside their guestroom or in their open luggage – easy pickings for a curious and hungry cat or dog. Educate guests about the do’s and don’t's inside a home with a pet.

Pet Holiday Hazard 5: The Presents

If a gift contains a food item, like gourmet chocolates, a dog is going to know exactly what’s inside – the dog’s nose always knows! So if a wrapped gift is placed under the Christmas tree, this provides the dog with an opportunity to “open” the holiday gift before December 25. Before placing a present under the Christmas tree, always ask the gift giver if the contents include a food item that may attract unwanted attention from the dog

Know where your local after hours 24-7 emergency vet is located and have their phone number handy just in case!

I became a big fan of dog daycare after seeing the benefits my own dogs received. I don’t “need” to put my own dogs in daycare as I work from home or am lucky enough to bring them to work with me, but there is no substitute for running free for hours with a pack of other friendly dogs. (Plus I enjoy the break  too – LOL)

True, you could go to the dog park after work or on weekends and that might be a close second. But how long do you spend at the dog park…30min, an hour? And have you ever had a “bad experience” there with another dog or irresponsible owner? Daycare dogs are screened for temperament and supervised by a professional. To me it’s worth the cost even if that’s only once/week or whatever fits into your budget.

As a dog trainer, and dog owner, here are some of the benefits that come to mind:

• Socialization: I can hardly believe when some people tell me their dog NEVER gets out to play with other dogs. Socialization should be an ongoing part of your dogs life from the day you get him and for as long as you have him. The benefits of a well socialized dog are too numerous for me to mention. I see the results of lack of adequate socialization daily and know what problems, stresses and challenges the dogs and their owners go through. Prevention is a must.
• Release of excess energy: If you work an 8 hour day, 5 days/week chances are you aren’t able to keep up with your dogs physical and mental needs on your own. Daycare gives you access to relieve your dogs boredom and put that energy to good use, so that when you come home tired, so does he.  
• Reduction for chances of aggression or fear based behaviours: Self explanatory.
• Reduction of most excessive (obsessions, fixations), destructive, or neurotic (anxiety, reactivity) and pretty much any other bad behaviours. Don’t misread this… I said reduction, not that it will solve a problem on its own. Additional training may be necessary.

There are many benefits and few disadvantages. If you have been on the fence about trying daycare, I recommend you call several locations and ask some questions. Visit the daycare and see where your dog would spend the day and what the staff is like. Once you find one that suits your specific needs, give it a try!

I find that most of my clients don’t care about the fancy or strict ways of traditional obedience. They just want a good dog that they can incorporate into their families. One that is friendly, comes when called, and walks nicely on the leash. Well if you are looking for the formula for the “perfect” family pet, I recommended you follow the well known task list for the CGN exam. Here are the titles of the tasks your dog will be expected to perform:

TEST 1 – Accepting a friendly stranger: Dogs must not be allowed to jump on people uninvited. The evaluator is assessing that the handler is in control of the dog and that the dog is not threatened by the approach of a stranger.

TEST 2 – Politely accepts petting: The evaluator is assessing whether the dog remains calm while a stranger pets it.

TEST 3 – Appearance and grooming: This practical test demonstrates that the dog will accept being groomed and examined and will permit a stranger to do so, such as a veterinarian, groomer, friend of the owner etc.

TEST 4 – Out for a walk: This test demonstrates the ability of the dog to walk politely on a loose leash as well as the handler’s ability to control the dog.

TEST 5 – Walking through a crowd: This test demonstrates the ability of the dog to walk politely beside the handler in pedestrian traffic while remaining under control at all times.

TEST 6 – Sit/ Down on command and stay in place (long line)

TEST 7 – Come when called (long line)

TEST 8 – Praise/ Interaction: After about 10 seconds of play, the evaluator will then instruct the handler to calm the dog

Test 9 – Reaction to passing dog: This test demonstrates the dog’s polite behaviour while in the presence of other dogs and handlers.

Test 10 – Reaction to distractions: This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when face with common visual and auditory distractions found in everyday life, such as a the sudden opening or closing of a door, crutches, wheelchair, baby stroller, loud noises, etc.

Test 11 – Supervised isolation: This test demonstrates the dog’s ability to be left alone with a trusted person other than its handler, while maintaining a calm acceptance of the situation.

TEST 12 – Walking through a door/ gate: The handler will command the dog to sit and wait. The handler will then walk through the opening (door/ gate). Once through, the handler will instruct the dog to walk through the opening and return to the handler’s side. Alternatively, if the opening is large enough for the two of them to pass through simultaneously, then the handler may instruct the dog to maintain a steady position beside the handler as they walk through the opening together

These not-so-simple, but oh-so-important, tasks cover nearly any situation the average dog might encounter in daily life with his family. If you would like to learn more about the CGN criteria, I would be happy to help!

If you don’t know much about the food you are feeding your dog you are not alone. I have some thought provoking questions for you and a little on my opinion about dog food.

Do you know how to read the ingredients label? or do you buy based on fancy packaging, cute commercials or what the guy at the pet store said was ok? Are you aware how common food allergies are in dogs? and would you know if your dog had food allergies? How does your dogs skin and coat look? (Yes I mean their fur, not doggy clothing!) Is it clean and shiny? Soft? Is there lots of dandruff? Red spots? A rash? Is your dog frequently itchy? Does he lick his feet a lot? These are some questions you need to ask when choosing your next bag of food. 

Now I wont even get into the kibble vs canned vs cooked vs raw debate. I could go on about food for pages. All I want is for you to know what you are putting in your dogs mouth. What we (and your dogs) eat plays a HUGE role in health, and the quality and longevity of our lives. I’ve recently stumbled upon a brand called TLC. Now there are LOTS of good pet foods on the market… this is only one, and I’m not claiming its THE best, but its passed my test and its what my own dogs currently eat.

Here are some quick tips:

Look for real meats as the first ingredient/s (not by-products, but “meal” is ok). Stay away from wheat and corn and opt for foods that contain barley, oatmeal, brown rice or potato instead. Know your dogs specific needs: is your dog extra active? a big couch potato? does he have trouble with too high protein diets? known allergies or skin conditions? Talk to your vet about switching foods if you are unsure and remember to do it gradually. Never abruptly change foods. Mix food for several days- a week, slowly increasing the amount of new food daily until change is complete.

Sorry I cant offer further details in this short blog, but feel free to ask me questions and/or speak with your vet.

(To read more about TLC go to www.tlcpet.com/28481 and get $5.00 off your first bag by entering the promo code 1025)

Dog grooming is one of your dog’s basic needs and an important part of dog ownership.

Just like people, dogs need physical maintenance to look and feel their best. Generally, a dog’s grooming needs depend on the breed and hair type. If your dog has a skin, ear or nail condition, follow your veterinarian’s instructions regarding grooming your dog. It is also important to use the appropriate grooming tools. 

Some common tools are seen here in the photo and include: two types of metal combs, nail clippers, a “slicker” style hairbrush and a pair of special grooming scissors.

Brushing

Many dogs may have a low tolerance for being brushed in the beginning, but regular brushing in a positive manner will strengthen the bond with your dog while maintaining a healthy coat. Starting with your puppy at an early age, even though he is wiggley, is best. Keep sessions very short to start. A dog’s minimum brushing needs depend on hair type. Choose the right tools and follow these guidelines.

• Long-haired dogs usually require daily brushing to prevent matting and tangling of hair.
• Medium-haired dogs may be prone to matting and tangles and should be brushed at least weekly.
• Short-haired dogs can typically go up to a month in-between brushing.

More frequent brushing during shedding season can help prevent hair build-up and excess shedding.

Bathing

I personally don’t understand what the big deal is about bathing. My dogs get bathed about twice/month, at home, in my bathroom, by yours truly. Their coats and skin are clean & healthy, there is no offensive doggy odor on them or in my house -where they spend most of their time- and they never have a problem with fleas. ( I do not give flea meds regularly) Because I groom them myself, and regularly, I am familar with their bodies and notice if anything is unusual right away.

Most dogs should be bathed monthly, but bathing as often as once a week is not considered harmful. Always use a soap-free shampoo that is intended for dogs. Depending on the condition of your dog’s skin and coat, your veterinarian may recommend a specific shampoo. In this case, be sure to follow your veterinarian’s instructions about bathing.

And last , but not least, my personal favorite…

Nails! (*cough* ahem*)

Nail trims are often detested by dogs and owners alike. Most dogs dislike even having their paws handled and know how much it hurts when nails are cut too short. Dog owners are often uncomfortable with the process for fear of hurting their dogs.

Dogs will develop an aversion to nail trimming once they experience pain from it. This usually occurs when the “kwik” or “quick”, a blood vein in a dogs nail, has been cut as the result of trimming the nail too short. The best way to avoid this is to learn how to trim nails correctly and exercise caution. In the event this occurs for you keep some Kwik Stop Styptic Powder on hand to help stop the bleeding. (You can find it at most pet stores)

Ideally, a veterinary technician, vet, or groomer should teach you how to trim your dog’s nails or do it for you. Most dogs need monthly nail trims, but your dog may need more or less depending on the rate of growth.

How do I know where the Kwik is and how much to cut off?

“A good professional should be able to help you to form a stronger and healthier bond with your dog”

“With every Trainer, as with every tool, you need to find the professional who fits your philosophy and values, and you should first have a conversation with him or her about views and methods before trying the trainer on your dog. Its been said that if there’s one thing any two animal professionals can agree on, its that one out of three are doing it wrong. Trust me- there are enough viewpoints, methods, and philosophies out there for you to find one that you feel right about in your heart….”

Cesar Millan (on obedience tools and trainers)

I, for one, couldn’t agree more with all of the above statements. I frequently get clients, who tell me that I am there 2^nd or 3^rd trainer and some of them unfortunately have had negative experiences with their past trainers. It saddens me greatly to hear that they trusted their trainer as a “professional” only to later regret it. I’m not saying there are a lot of bad trainers out there, but it does happen.

My best advice is to always listen to your instincts! Never allow ANYONE to do something to your dog that you don’t feel is cruel or abusive. That is not proper training. Research the trainer beforehand and get to know their methods and philosophies to be sure they match yours.  Get a referral from a friend if possible, talk with several trainers, ask to watch a class or have a private consultation if they offer one. If the trainer isn’t open to speaking with you, or able to answer your questions, that’s a red flag.

There are many training methods out there, and I don’t believe one is better than another, but there are definitely some tactics I avoid. As I openly discuss on my website, I consider myself an open minded and balanced trainer. One who believes different things work on different dogs and the core is about understanding, respect and communication between two species.

Although it is not a guarantee, you can also check to see if your Trainer has any professional designations (for example I am a member of both The Canadian Association Of Professional Pet Dog Trainers and the International Association of Canine Professionals).